Cosmetics · Quasi-drug actives
3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
3-O-エチルアスコルビン酸 (3-O-Echiru asukorubin-san)
Also known as: Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
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| Category | Cosmetics |
|---|---|
| INCI name | 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid↗ |
| Japanese labeling name | 3-O-エチルアスコルビン酸 |
| Common Japanese notations | 3-O-エチルアスコルビン酸 |
| CAS number | 86404-04-8↗ |
| Origin | Synthetic (vitamin C derivative) |
| Typical functions | Antioxidant, Skin brightening, Skin conditioning |
| Regulatory status in Japan | Cosmetic ingredient listed in the JSCI (Japanese Cosmetic Industry Association) labeling name dictionary. |
3-O-Ethyl ascorbic acid is a more recent vitamin C derivative that has gained significant use in Japanese and broader Asian skincare. The ethyl ether at the C3 position improves stability and lipophilicity over free ascorbic acid while preserving in vivo conversion to active vitamin C.
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Classification
Tags below link to other ingredients sharing the same attribute, so you can pivot from one ingredient to its peers.
Product applications
Regulatory tags
Origin
Common OEM product categories
Finished-product categories where Japanese OEM manufacturers commonly formulate with this ingredient.
- Brightening serums and essences
- Anti-aging skincare
- Spot-care products
Ingredient profile
3-O-Ethyl ascorbic acid is the C3 ethyl ether of L-ascorbic acid. Its lipophilicity makes it suitable for both water- and oil-based formulations.
OEM applications
In Japanese and Asian cosmetics, 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid appears in brightening serums, essences, and anti-aging skincare positioning around vitamin C narratives.
Regulatory classification in Japan
Cosmetic use is permitted under the JSCI dictionary.
Regulatory classification in other markets
| EU | Listed in CosIng. Permitted for cosmetic use. |
|---|---|
| USA | INCI recognized. |
| China | Permitted per IECIC listings. |
| Korea | Widely used in Korean skincare. Permitted under KFDA / MFDS. |
Market reference formulations
Example finished products will be added after each product's current full ingredient list has been verified.
All brand names and product names referenced anywhere on this site are the property of their respective owners. Example entries are provided for informational purposes only and do not imply endorsement.
Alternative ingredients
Related ingredients commonly evaluated as substitutes.
Quick answers
- What is 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid?
- 3-O-Ethyl ascorbic acid is a more recent vitamin C derivative that has gained significant use in Japanese and broader Asian skincare. The ethyl ether at the C3 position improves stability and lipophilicity over free ascorbic acid while preserving in vivo conversion to active vitamin C.
- What is the regulatory status of 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid in Japan?
- Cosmetic ingredient listed in the JSCI (Japanese Cosmetic Industry Association) labeling name dictionary.
- What products typically use 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid?
- Brightening serums and essences / Anti-aging skincare / Spot-care products
- Where does 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid come from?
- Synthetic (vitamin C derivative)
- What is the INCI / JSCI labeling name for 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid?
- INCI: 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid / JSCI: 3-O-エチルアスコルビン酸
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Regulatory guidance
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FAQ for OEM buyers
Q. Is 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid approved as a quasi-drug active in Japan?
No — 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid is a general cosmetic ingredient in Japan, not on the 厚生労働省 (Ministry of Health, Labour and Welfare) quasi-drug whitening active list. Whitening-style claims under the quasi-drug framework cannot be made; cosmetic 'brightening' positioning is used instead.
Sources · Last reviewed: 2026-04-26
- 厚生労働省 (Ministry of Health, Labour and Welfare) — quasi-drug whitening active ingredient lists
Q. How does it compare with other vitamin C derivatives?
3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid is an ether-stabilized vitamin C derivative known for both water and oil compatibility, faster conversion in skin than glycoside forms, and good stability at pH 5–6. It is widely used in Asian brightening cosmetics where the brand wants vitamin C anchoring without the quasi-drug filing burden.
Sources · Last reviewed: 2026-04-26
- Industry knowledge — vitamin C derivative comparison
Industry-knowledge claim — not yet pinned to a single primary source
Q. What is the typical use level and known issues?
Used at 1–3% in serums and 0.5–2% in lotions/emulsions; can cause slight yellowing over time, so chelators, antioxidants, and opaque packaging are recommended.
Sources · Last reviewed: 2026-04-26
- Industry knowledge — 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid formulation practice
Industry-knowledge claim — not yet pinned to a single primary source
Q. Is it on China's IECIC inventory?
Yes — 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid is on China's IECIC inventory and is freely used in NMPA-registered cosmetics, making China-export OEM straightforward provided overall product registration is completed.
Sources · Last reviewed: 2026-04-26
- China NMPA — IECIC (Inventory of Existing Cosmetic Ingredients in China)
Use cases
Brightening serum
- Positioning
- Vitamin C-anchored brightening cosmetic (non-medicated)
- Typical usage level
- 1–3%
- Formulation notes
- pH 5–6 water phase; chelators; opaque packaging.
Sources
- Industry knowledge — Asian brightening serum category
Industry-knowledge claim — not yet pinned to a single primary source
Anti-aging essence
- Positioning
- Antioxidant + brightening dual positioning
- Formulation notes
- Combined with peptides and niacinamide; stable in cosmetic claim products.
Sources
- Industry knowledge — anti-aging essence formulation
Industry-knowledge claim — not yet pinned to a single primary source
Brightening sheet mask
- Positioning
- K-beauty / J-beauty single-use brightening mask
- Formulation notes
- Used at 1–2% in mask serum; pair with HA and niacinamide.
Sources
- Industry knowledge — Asian brightening mask category
Industry-knowledge claim — not yet pinned to a single primary source
Eye serum
- Positioning
- Dark-circle / under-eye brightening cosmetic
- Formulation notes
- Used at 0.5–1.5% in airless tube/pump packaging.
Sources
- Industry knowledge — eye-care category
Industry-knowledge claim — not yet pinned to a single primary source
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Official regulatory databases
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References
- JSCI (Japanese Cosmetic Industry Association) labeling name directory — 3-O-エチルアスコルビン酸
- EU CosIng entry: Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Last updated: 2026-04-22. Ingredient entries are reviewed at least annually against current regulatory listings.